From the home of Bermondsey's working-classes, to London's premier pleasure beach?
When taking a lazy evening stroll along The Queen's Walk, SE1's Thames-side walkway, it is very easy to miss the clues that point to Bermondsey Beach's place in history as the home, workplace and playground of the ordinary working people of Bermondsey. Riverfront terraced housing, later rebranded as 'slums', has long since been demolished; Hay's dock and with it the livelihood of tens of thousands of locals has been filled-in and 'gentrified'; and the industrial heart of Bermondsey, including the Anchor Brewery and bonded warehouses ripped out of the once gloriously rich Thames promenade. Whitewashed and airbrushed out, but not forgotten.
Hay's Galleria, formerly Hay's Dock ©Bermondsey Beach 2013 |
But with the demise of the docks and wharves, and with them Britain's shipping industry, Bermondsey's brightest and best were progressively and brutally ejected from their deckchairs on London's finest beach.
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Enjoyed today by men and women from all over the world, and toiled over in days long forgotten by innumerable dockers and labourers from the once all-powerful Bermondsey working-classes, the beach formed the gateway to the now defunct 'larder of London', with over three-quarters of the city's butter, cheese, bacon and canned meats landing there. Although dockers were poorly paid, they along with many food processing firms such as biscuit manufacturer Peek Freens and Co and Sarson's Vinegar provided additional employment to sustain the lives of our hardworking families.
St Saviour's Dock, SE1
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Ships would dock weekly in their thousands, offloading their wares, and in turn feeding the hungry mouths of millions of families across London. These days, powerboats scream past carrying the wailing well-to-do on their birthday gift experiences. London's cheese, poultry and meat industries no longer employ generations of Bermondsey families at Hay's Dock - instead our premier markets at Spa Terminus (Spa Road) and Maltby Street sell some of the best produce in Britain, albeit to an exclusively middle-class elite.
The Beach at Cherry Gardens, SE16
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In 21st century Bermondsey, the modern beach front houses some of Britain's finest places to spend a Friday night: from The Pont De La Tour and Blueprint Cafe, to the buzzing All Bar One and Browns bars. In fact, it's thanks to the Butlers Wharf and Shad Thames pioneer Terence Conran that much of this area was redeveloped at all. The question is, how can these be made more inclusive, and as a result inviting, to those living in the poorer parts of Bermondsey?
Nonetheless, if you haven't seen lately the views from the beach, get down there today: London's testicle, otherwise known as City Hall, is provocatively tickled by the Shard; the Cheese grater shaves off slices of the Gherkin before your eyes; and standing majestically in the distance is St Paul's Cathedral - but is Sir Christopher Wren looking down with delight or disdain?
Butlers Wharf, Shad Thames, SE1
©Wikipedia
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The Shard and City Hall (known affectionately as The Testicle), SE1
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View across the beach to Wapping
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View across the Beach to The Tower of London
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View from the beach - Tower Bridge
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Rugged and rich in history - the Beach near Cherry Gardens
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View of Bermondsey Beach from Rotherhithe
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